The Skin Deep Podcast

Episode 9: Black Skin, Brown Skin & The Skincare Advice We Keep Getting Wrong

Fri, 16 Oct 2026 10:00:00 GMT

A lot of skincare advice wasn’t written with every skin tone in mind. We unpack why melanin-rich skin reacts differently to trauma, the tyrosinase inhibitors that actually fade a dark mark safely, and why "I don't burn" is one of the most dangerous myths in skincare. Darker skin isn’t a problem to solve. It needs advice that actually makes sense.

Decades of dermatology research centred on the lighter end of the Fitzpatrick scale — melanin-rich skin was treated as an afterthought, not the baseline
Melanocytes in darker skin are larger, denser and more reactive, so a harsh exfoliant calibrated for lighter skin can trigger more pigment, not less — and physical scrubbing makes it worse
Tyrosinase inhibitors (alpha arbutin, licorice root extract, tranexamic acid) fade a dark mark safely by blocking pigment production at the source — and it still takes weeks, not the "seven days" promised on the label

Episode 8: Your Skin Barrier Is Begging You To Stop

Fri, 09 Oct 2026 10:00:00 GMT

If your face is burning, peeling or reacting to everything, maybe it’s time to put the acids down. What barrier damage actually looks like, why stinging isn't a sign it's "working," the real difference between purging and barrier collapse, and the hydration-and-peptide protocol that rebuilds it.

Stinging or burning from a product is an inflammatory response, not proof an active is "working" — a sudden reaction to a moisturiser you've used for years means the barrier is already compromised
How to tell a normal, localized "purge" apart from real barrier collapse (widespread redness, heat, and stinging with basic products)
The recovery protocol: stop every active immediately, rebuild with hydration layering (humectants) and barrier-repair peptides, and expect it to take weeks, not days

Episode 7: Retinol, Retinal & The Retinoid Rabbit Hole

Fri, 02 Oct 2026 10:00:00 GMT

Retinol. Retinal. Tretinoin. Same vitamin A family, very different conversion pathway. We break down why the skin only recognises retinoic acid, why the two-step conversion in gentler retinoids is a built-in safety buffer, and how getting this wrong destroys your barrier — especially on melanin-rich skin.

Why the skin only has receptors for retinoic acid — and why retinol/retinal's extra conversion steps are a safety buffer, not a weaker version of tretinoin
Stacking a retinoid with an exfoliating acid dissolves the barrier's lipid "mortar" faster than it can rebuild — and the resulting inflammation makes hyperpigmentation worse, especially on melanin-rich skin
"Clean beauty" is an unregulated marketing term, and a clear glass dropper bottle is often worse for active-ingredient stability than an opaque, airless pump

Episode 6: Dark Spots, Hyperpigmentation & The Long Game

Fri, 25 Sep 2026 10:00:00 GMT

Dark marks don’t disappear because you bought a brighter serum. We unpack post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation vs. melasma, why over-treating makes it worse, how niacinamide actually works, the truth about "purging," and why sunscreen is non-negotiable. No miracle creams. Just the facts.

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (a localized injury response) vs. melasma (often hormonally driven) — why they need different approaches
The "kitchen sink" approach backfires: stacking acids and retinoids damages the barrier, and inflammation itself triggers more pigment
How niacinamide blocks pigment transfer instead of bleaching it away, why "purging" doesn't apply to a basic moisturiser, and why sunscreen is non-negotiable for treating dark marks at all

Episode 5: SPF Is Not Optional

Fri, 18 Sep 2026 10:00:00 GMT

Sunscreen is the one non-negotiable in this deep dive on SPF, UVA vs UVB, reapplication, why melanin-rich skin still needs daily protection, and how it all connects to hyperpigmentation and the retinoid rabbit hole. Because “I don’t burn” isn’t the same as “I’m protected.”

Why "I don't burn" isn't the same as "I'm protected" — the physics of UVA (deep, silent, ageing) vs UVB (surface, burns)
Chemical sunscreen molecules degrade as they absorb UV — why reapplication after about two hours isn't optional
How unprotected UVA exposure feeds post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and undermines barrier-damaging retinoid use

Episode 4: Ingredient Drama

Fri, 11 Sep 2026 10:00:00 GMT

The essential skincare chemistry class: the layering rules that actually matter, real power-couple ingredients, the dangerous duos to never mix, and the damage-control routine if you've overdone it.

The three layering rules: thinnest-to-thickest, lowest-to-highest pH, and water-based before oil-based
Real power couples — vitamin C, E and ferulic acid; retinol with niacinamide and hyaluronic acid — plus the "sandwich technique" for sensitive skin
Dangerous duos to never mix (retinol with AHA/BHA acids, benzoyl peroxide with retinol or vitamin C) and the damage-control routine if you've overdone it

Episode 3: Glass Skin

Fri, 04 Sep 2026 10:00:00 GMT

Glass skin has gone from K-beauty niche to a global, multi-billion-dollar look. We unpack what dermatologists actually say about chasing it, and the barrier-first counter-trend pushing back against the filtered ideal.

Glass skin's cultural roots in K-beauty and its multi-billion-dollar market growth
Why dermatologists warn that chasing the "filtered" look online can drive over-exfoliation and barrier damage
The barrier-first counter-trend: protect the barrier, simplify your routine, and accept real texture as normal

Episode 2: Skincare Fails

Fri, 28 Aug 2026 10:00:00 GMT

A hall of fame of skincare industry fails: undisclosed steroids, a fake-review scandal, a sunscreen SPF cover-up and a benzoyl peroxide recall. Then the everyday user errors — over-exfoliation and bad ingredient combos — and how to recover.

Mario Badescu's undisclosed prescription-strength steroid creams and Sunday Riley's fake-review scandal
The Korean sunscreen "SPF cover-up" and why benzoyl peroxide can break down into the carcinogen benzene
The over-exfoliation epidemic, ingredient combos to avoid, and how to read an INCI list and patch test properly

Episode 1: Weird Skincare

Fri, 21 Aug 2026 10:00:00 GMT

Beef tallow has exploded on TikTok as a "clean" skincare miracle. We break down what it actually is, why dermatologists warn it's highly comedogenic for most skin types, and which proven ingredients do the job it claims to.

What beef tallow actually is: a strong occlusive moisturiser, not a treatment
Why dermatologists flag it as highly comedogenic for oily, combination and acne-prone skin
It's sold with zero regulatory oversight — plus the proven alternatives (hyaluronic acid, retinoids) that already do this job