SkinLabs
    Episode 7: Retinol, Retinal & The Retinoid Rabbit Hole cover art
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    19 min · Published 2026-09-13

    Retinoids 101Barrier Repair

    Episode 7: Retinol, Retinal & The Retinoid Rabbit Hole

    Retinol. Retinal. Tretinoin. Same vitamin A family, very different conversion pathway. We break down why the skin only recognises retinoic acid, why the two-step conversion in gentler retinoids is a built-in safety buffer, and how getting this wrong destroys your barrier — especially on melanin-rich skin.

    Show notes

    • Why the skin only has receptors for retinoic acid — and why retinol/retinal's extra conversion steps are a safety buffer, not a weaker version of tretinoin
    • Stacking a retinoid with an exfoliating acid dissolves the barrier's lipid "mortar" faster than it can rebuild — and the resulting inflammation makes hyperpigmentation worse, especially on melanin-rich skin
    • "Clean beauty" is an unregulated marketing term, and a clear glass dropper bottle is often worse for active-ingredient stability than an opaque, airless pump

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    Episode 8: Your Skin Barrier Is Begging You To Stop

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