Silki vs Skin Functional: Vitamin C + Arbutin Brightening, Compared
A fast-growing SA brand's vitamin C stack against Skin Functional's disclosed ascorbic-and-ferulic approach — stability and Highveld UV.
Silki
10% Vitamin C + 1% Alpha Arbutin Serum
R280
Skin Functional
10% Ascorbic + 3% Ferulic Acid
R230
Two brightening philosophies, one shared 10% headline
Both Silki's serum and Skin Functional's serum lead with a 10% vitamin C claim, but the vitamin C form itself is different — and that difference matters more than the matching headline number suggests, especially for stability in South Africa's climate and UV conditions.
Reading the fine print on "vitamin C"
Skin Functional discloses L-ascorbic acid, the most-researched and most potent form of vitamin C, paired with 3% ferulic acid — a combination with genuine published evidence that ferulic acid roughly doubles the photoprotective effect of L-ascorbic acid alone. It's a proven pairing, but L-ascorbic acid is also notoriously unstable, oxidising fast once opened, especially in heat.
Silki's serum uses sodium ascorbyl phosphate, a gentler, more stable vitamin C derivative, alongside 1% alpha arbutin — a tyrosinase-inhibiting brightening ingredient with solid evidence for fading dark marks and post-inflammatory pigmentation. Derivative forms like sodium ascorbyl phosphate generally deliver a more gradual, less potent brightening effect than L-ascorbic acid, but they're far less prone to oxidising into a useless brown bottle by month two.
Why this specifically matters in SA's climate
L-ascorbic acid formulas like Skin Functional's need to be stored away from heat and light — a real ask in an un-air-conditioned Joburg bathroom in summer, or a Durban flat without climate control. Once a bottle turns visibly amber, it's doing far less work than the label promises. Silki's derivative-based formula is meaningfully more forgiving of imperfect storage, which is a genuine practical advantage for anyone who can't guarantee a cool, dark cupboard.
Which one brightens dark marks faster
If pigmentation and post-inflammatory dark marks are the primary concern, Silki's alpha arbutin addition gives it a specific, well-evidenced tool that Skin Functional's formula doesn't have. If overall dullness, uneven tone and daily antioxidant photoprotection are the goal, Skin Functional's L-ascorbic-and-ferulic pairing has the stronger research base, provided you store and use it before it oxidises.
Price and value
At R230, Skin Functional undercuts Silki's R280 while using the more research-backed active form — but that price advantage only holds if you actually use the bottle up before it degrades. Silki's higher price buys a formula that's more forgiving of real-world storage and daily habits, plus arbutin's targeted pigmentation benefit.
Our take
Choose Skin Functional if you can commit to cool, dark storage and want the strongest evidence-backed antioxidant pairing for daily photoprotection. Choose Silki if you specifically want to target dark marks and hyperpigmentation, or if you know you won't be disciplined about storing an L-ascorbic acid serum properly.
Which one actually makes sense for you
Better for targeting dark marks and hyperpigmentation
Silki's 10% Vitamin C + Alpha Arbutin — arbutin adds a specific tyrosinase-inhibiting tool Skin Functional lacks.
Better evidence base for daily antioxidant photoprotection
Skin Functional's 10% Ascorbic + Ferulic Acid — a well-researched, potent pairing, if stored correctly.
Better for imperfect storage conditions
Silki — sodium ascorbyl phosphate is far more stable than L-ascorbic acid once opened.
Better value if you store it properly
Skin Functional, at R230 against Silki's R280, provided you keep it cool and dark and use it before it oxidises.
Key takeaways
- Both serums claim 10% vitamin C, but Skin Functional uses L-ascorbic acid while Silki uses the gentler, more stable sodium ascorbyl phosphate.
- Skin Functional's ferulic acid pairing has strong published evidence for photoprotection, but L-ascorbic acid oxidises fast in heat.
- Silki's alpha arbutin addition gives it a specific advantage for fading dark marks and post-inflammatory pigmentation.
- Storage discipline should factor into the decision — Skin Functional needs cool, dark conditions to stay effective; Silki is more forgiving.
From the Knowledge Hub
Frequently asked questions
Which vitamin C form is more effective, L-ascorbic acid or sodium ascorbyl phosphate?
L-ascorbic acid is generally considered the most potent, research-backed form of vitamin C, which is why Skin Functional's formula pairs it with ferulic acid for photoprotection. Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, used in Silki's serum, is gentler and more stable but typically delivers more gradual brightening.
Why does my vitamin C serum turn brown or orange?
That's oxidation, and it happens fastest with L-ascorbic acid formulas like Skin Functional's when exposed to heat, light or air. Once a serum has visibly darkened, it's doing significantly less antioxidant work — store it in a cool, dark place and replace it if it turns deep amber or brown.
Is alpha arbutin safe to use daily?
Yes, alpha arbutin is generally well-tolerated for daily use and is considered a safer, more gradual alternative to hydroquinone for fading dark marks and hyperpigmentation. Pair it with daily sunscreen, since unprotected UV exposure can undo pigmentation progress.
Can I use either of these serums under sunscreen?
Yes, both are designed for morning use under sunscreen, where their antioxidant properties support (but don't replace) UV protection. Apply the serum first, let it absorb, then follow with sunscreen as the final step.
Editorial disclaimer: SKINLABS's views and opinions are independent. This article is not paid or sponsored content. Product information is assessed using publicly available information, ingredient analysis, editorial research and, where applicable, product testing. Prices, availability and formulations may change.
Reader discussion
Chante_Bloem
My Skin Functional bottle turned orange within a month in summer, this explains exactly why — should've stored it better.
2026/08/30
Ntokozo_Springs
Silki's arbutin addition is the reason I've stuck with it over the plain vitamin C serums, good to see that called out specifically.
2026/08/30
PieterJ_Kimberley
Good breakdown of the actual vitamin C forms — most comparisons just say '10%' and leave it there.
2026/08/30
